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Most equate frico with a tuile made from Parmesan or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, but I am just as enamored of gruyere frico.

Ella wanted to taste its sugar tuile basket and cotton candy belly.

Desserts need to be technical, too, whether it be a hand roll puff pastry, a dehydrated tuile or a beautifully-cut strawberry.

Charbel's dish is immediately striking, featuring onions with an onion soubise between each layer, as well as an onion mousse, sumac tuile and chicken jus, with an elegance that is juxtaposed by the boyish energy of his confessionals.

But since my last visit, a chocolate lava cake — an intriguing take on the dated favorite with chocolate mochi, raspberry coulis, dark chocolate ganache, vanilla gelato and cocoa tuile — has been added to the menu.