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A plate of farmers’ market cucumbers and melon got a joyous umami nudge from a Beldi-olive tuille and creamy blobs of whipped feta.

Quince sorbet with a rosemary ‘tuille,’ poached quince and rye bread 18.

He never can bring himself to utter to his mountain land, from the depths of his heart, the melancholy words, "Che til na tuille."