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Through the centuries, the unisex garment evolved from an underlayer for the upper class to become outerwear, sashed with an obi but featuring smaller sleeves that aided physical activity — helpful for the samurai warriors.

Finnie: I feel like the underlayer for me watching it is the dreams and identity.

Suits coats were double-breasted, with a silken underlayer providing contrast.

At one point, the dancers shed their skirts to disclose an underlayer of lace encasing their bodies like a delicate web.

Annie Murphy was laid-back sexy in a suit with an underlayer of lace.