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The Church saw vinum clarum as a profane wine, and its consumption was not imbued with Christian symbolism, nor attached to any table ceremony.

Nelly Ward from Vinum Fine Wines, who attended Bellavita, found the wines intriguing and says "The finish is long, persistent, with a certain salty mineral, almost iron flavor."

I bought a set of six almost immediately after the tasting, not cheap at more than $50 apiece but worth it for supplementing the conventional, serviceable Riedel Vinum Cabernet glasses that I had long been using daily at home for every sort of wine.

Each was superior to the Riedel Vinum, the far cheaper and less exalted glass I’ve used at home for years.

It’s early to make a final judgment on the wines of 2018, even for Mr. Dirksen, a critic for Vinum, an industry publication.