�y��vlog

Viewers may emerge from “The Taste of Things” desperate to find a restaurant that serves a good vol-au-vent, a turbot in hollandaise sauce or the meringue-coated ice cream confection known as baked alaska.

Each course is practically a feast unto itself: vol-au-vent, roasted veal loin, poached turbot, baked Alaska — and that’s just the first half-hour.

Rather than braising it, my grandfather André would cook it in a vol-au-vent and combine with crayfish.

Jones displays his affection for pastry again in a fine vol-au-vent: puff pastry with a well of creamy leeks and fingers of steelhead trout on top, its gleam courtesy of orange trout roe.

They will be there for hours and hours, and yet, it seems, they will not get so much as a vol-au-vent.