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But would I notice the difference if it were served in a Waldorf salad like the one it featured in last fall at Eleven Madison Park?

Vacationers who wanted a reimagined Waldorf salad at Salt & Steel, a nearby restaurant, needed to call ahead for reservations and hope it wasn’t Sunday, when the short-staffed restaurant was closed.

Celery, though not my favourite vegetable, is a non-negotiable part of a Waldorf salad, adding a fresh crunch and a subtle minerality, so if you’re more of a fan, feel free to go larger.

Waldorf salad was the standby winter side salad when I was growing up.

Beautifully restored and glamorous, with a killer bar, the Commodore serves starters including lobster deviled eggs and Waldorf salad and entrees like seven-spice cauliflower and beer-battered walleye.