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What I want it to be is fresher, brighter and herbier than the most classic versions, which rely entirely on canned beans — green beans, wax beans and kidney beans.

I usually wait until May to sow beans, but this year, I sowed some pole wax beans a month early.

Other oddities happened along the way at Il Nido, too, like a dish of chewy, dry wax beans.

Varieties include slender haricots verts, Blue Lake and pale yellow wax beans, with meaty, flat Romano beans also starting to show up.

Tomatoes and cucumbers are grown in hothouses; they are as misleading as wax beans.