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Pentire also makes botanical, non-alcoholic spirits which don‘t fall into traditional booze categories. Their Seaward boasts “bright, zesty and verdant” flavors, with ingredients like sea rosemary, woodruff, sea buckhorn and pink grapefruit.

Sweet woodruff is easy to grow and adapts to a wide range of garden conditions, although afternoon sun in high summer can scorch the foliage.

One dessert currently on the menu, "Strawberries and Woodruff", only uses foraged woodruff because it would not be sustainable to harvest the wild strawberries in the local area.

He has also introduced McAfee’s traditional cottage garden favorites: poppies, lupines, honesty and sweet woodruff, ‘‘which comes up,’’ she says, ‘‘like a white haze under the green arches of Solomon’s seal.’’

This was followed by birch ice cream under white slices of raw pine mushrooms and woodruff leaves, an odd, herbaceous and unexpectedly stirring combination.