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A blend of white and brown rice flours, corn starch, and tapioca starch serve as their base, but it's the pumpkin purée that really shines and makes these as moist as any glutenous treat you can find.

Steve’s not quite ready to join the registry ranks of Glutenous Maximus, Albus, Bowie or Clint Yeastwood just yet.

So while my kid might insist on noodles, I would work within that limit to inspire his juvenile palate with all manner of glutenous delights: garganelli with ragu, penne with pesto, orecchiette with sausage and kale.

I love to put these on a cheese plate next to regular, glutenous crackers, and see how my gluten-skeptic guests devour them.

He funnels this know-how into making desserts that, he says, taste exactly like their glutenous counterparts.