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Some maps of Brooklyn farmland depicted “a mansion house, and the ice house, and the oyster shack, and the grapery,” Ms. Brenwall said.

The Grapery will ship anywhere in the U.S., though there’s a flat $12 shipping rate for California, parts of Nevada and the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

So Beagle, chief executive of the Grapery in Bakersfield, started a home-delivery service called GraperyDirect.com that mails a bunch overnight using FedEx.

Grapery.—The graperies started last month at 50� at night may now be increased to 60�, with a correspondingly higher day temperature.

Grapery.—The grapery started in January will have set its fruit, which should be thinned by one-third.