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A month after Hurricane Ian hit Cuba, Diaz was farming malanga root, a Cuban staple that is more resilient to climate change, but less profitable than beans.

Filling, starchy vegetables like plantains, name, malanga and yautia are not profitable crops, but they were staples long before the arrival of mainland restaurant chains in the 1950s.

"Chávez has only one idea," said a nearby fruit vendor, Roberto González, 64, chopping a purple malanga as he talked about Chávez's socialist revolution.

But the special delight of the Samoan is the malanga.

But the special delight of the Samoan is the malanga.