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This organic blend of malvasia puntinata, bellone, chardonnay and verdicchio from foothills near Rome reignites my fondness for the white wines of central Italy.

This wine is made from malvasia moscata grown in northwestern Italy, near the French border.

This one, made largely from the malvasia del Lazio grape, is still fresh, but richer, with more character than in the Frascatis I remember.

The grape is called malvasia moscato, and it combines the exotic, floral characteristics of both the malvasia and muscat grapes into a raucous dance party of flavors.

The various types of malvasia found throughout the Mediterranean vineyards can be sweet or dry, but they are invariably aromatic and fruity.