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The book includes revamped reader favorites from her blog, “What’s Gaby Cooking,” such as chicken parmesan meatballs and spring rolls with peanut sauce and nuoc mam as well as simplified classics such as oven-baked ratatouille and Korean BBQ-inspired meatloaf.

It's common practice to add sambal oelek to Vietnamese and Thai dipping sauces like nuoc mam and nam jim.

Grilled corn with coconut milk and scallion, spicy vegetable curry pie, tamarind Manila clams, pork sausage satay, Kreung’s stir-fried lobster, and Vietnamese grilled fish for two with banh hoi, greens and charred chile nuoc mam will be served at booth seating.

Once in a while, Tran squeezes in deliveries of donated masks along with the nuoc mam to aid people in “staying covered.”

Its nuoc mam cham condiment is too timid for my tastes, its fish-sauce fervor all but stifled by sugar.