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Commercial versions can include a variety of ingredients, even strawberries, but the basic recipe is equal parts white sugar cane vinegar or rice wine vinegar and light soy mixed with finely diced white onion, garlic, chilli, lime juice and fish sauce – “Filipino patis if you can get it.”

Mr. Dulos’s lawyer, Norm Patis, said that Mr. Dulos “categorically” denied being involved with Ms. Dulos’s disappearance.

Still, he makes sure to keep the kitchen well stocked with patis as an extra seasoning for diners who can’t live without it — like his wife.

Do I taste patis ­– Filipino fish sauce – too?

So what seems to be a simple bowl of pancit noodles becomes a complex composition balancing butter, a bit of fragrant calamansi lime juice, and shavings of egg yolk that has been cured with patis, the strong Filipino fish sauce … it’s less street food than an umami-rich Filipino wink at spaghetti carbonara.