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I have yet to try a Monkey Gland or a Scoff-Law cocktail, but am infinitely calmer after three glasses of vin blanc cassis — and pleased to know it was a Henry Miller favorite.

They drizzled the mugolio vin blanc over pinewood-smoked trout that was quickly sautéed to crisp the skin.

So is a variation I prefer: coq au vin blanc, or coq au vin jaune, which leaves the old rooster or capon tasting as if it got taken to a party it wasn’t expecting, thoroughly saturated in the complexities of deep dark yellow wine and a long night on the town.

It hid a delightful burst of crunchy salt and was served with an Asian flair over noodles and vegetable sauté, topped with a blue crab and sweet Thai chili vin blanc and hoisin sauce.

Emeril Lagasse has a new Hallmark show, “Emeril’s Table,” that looks very much like all his other incarnations, particularly since his recipes are for things like coq au vin blanc and quiche.